July '19

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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2 0 1 9 J U L Y P R I N T W E A R 2 3 On inspection of digitized files, we identi- fy styles and combinations of underlay such as whether a shape is traced by edge con- tours, backed by a loose fill, or reinforced with a bidirectional mesh fill combination. We see satins supported by a single central run, an inset contour, or a combination of edge runs and zigzags. Whether watch- ing a machine or a simulated run reveals sequence, hidden traveling stitches, and how objects layer for both efficiency and to create dimension. We see pathing, noticing the direction of apparent travel through the design, how each element connects to the next, and how each 'moves' toward or away from existing stitching. We see how designs for caps or unstable materials promote stability by starting from the center and working out, or by completely stitching discrete areas and stopping to outline elements in place at the cost of color changes before moving to other parts of the design. By observing designs running on machines, we see how stitching affects a garment and how stitches interact in real time. In the finished piece, we see how different stitch types and angles catch light and even change perceived colors. Simple observation nets a tremendous wealth of information we can correlate to digitizing choices as we dig deeper into the design. THE SPECIFIC Direct measurement allows us to replicate what we've seen, providing the numerical specif- ics our software needs to conjure stitches from example designs. With a known stitch type, we add the following crucial measurements: stitch length, stitch angle, and density, all easily measured in both topstitching and underlay. Even in entry-level sizing programs, most em- broidery suites contain an on-screen ruler. This ruler quickly reveals these key variables with only two measurements on almost any object. We begin by loading a target design and turning on the visibility of stitch penetrations in This piece I digitized for the crew of the Netflix series 'Chambers' ran well on the puffer vests required for the order. With only my expanded file and this sample, a great deal can be learned about my digitizing process.

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