July '19

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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2 4 P R I N T W E A R J U L Y 2 0 1 9 2 4 P R I N T W E A R J U L Y 2 0 1 9 our software. To analyze a fill, zoom in to the middle of a filled object and find a clear- ly visible row of stitching. With your ruler tool, click a needle penetration point on that line and drag your ruler, aligned with the stitch, until you reach the next penetra- tion point. In the measurement display, you should see an angle and a length. The angle represents the stitch angle of the fill and the length measurement is the fill's stitch length. To measure density, you'll click on the cen- ter of your stitch line and drag the ruler perpendicular to that line, across a second, stopping in the middle of the third line of stitching. The measurement you have now is the density of the fill stitch. Measuring .4mm reveals a density of 4 points. Density is the same on a satin, measured from one of the stitches perpendicular to the object's edges, across the angled return, stopping on the third perpendicular stitch. On fills with 'chiseled' edges or the edge of satins or zig-zags, you can measure density from one penetration point on the very edge of an el- ement to the next. To copy a regular fill's texture, you will also have to measure pattern offsets. In a standard fill stitch, you'll see on close in- spection that the needle penetrations are regular and repeat after a number of stitch lines. For most defaults, you will see that along a line perpendicular to the stitch an- gle, penetration points align at every fourth line of stitching. Once you know that, you only need to click on a penetration point and measure along a line of stitching until the end of your ruler is directly above or be- low a penetration point on the neighboring stitch line. This gives you the offset from line to line, which can be divided into the fill's stitch length to give you a percentage if your software doesn't use the millimeter measurement for entering stitch offsets. With underlay, particularly edge-run or contour, measuring the inset from the edge of the column is critical to how they support edges and avoid 'popping out.' The den- EMBROIDERY Erich's Embellishments The interplay between stitch angles, satin and fill types, and the overlapped, carved satin elements is eye-catching at a glance. Top: In this file, large satin stitches are supported by edge-run plus double zigzag underlays. The 'road' surface behind the tiger is regular and has a lower density than most. The planes of the tiger's face are cut into sections with different stitch angles, and all the fills in the tiger's face have randomness applied to their stitch lengths to make the surfaces look more organic and rough, and are backed by a mesh fill un- derlay. Above: This piece has a world of specialty settings to share, having been adjusted to get full cov- erage without overly disrupting the rubbery material of the faux hide. Even without seeing the file curved fills, random stitch lengths, stitch types, angles, and layers are easily seen.

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