Awards & Engraving

September '19

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A&E SEPTEMBER 2019 • a-e-mag.com 15 long it needs to last. The more tools I have at hand, the more options I have for that application. And it works both ways. For example, if decorating apparel with sublimation is a part of your existing busi- ness, you can expand that line by using heat transfer vinyl to decorate on specific blends and colors of apparel that sublima- tion cannot do, like cotton. TUTORIAL Let's look at an example of how you can create a unique sign using multiple design processes. Following, I have a sign for a comic book store that I create using laser engraving, sublimation, and cut vinyl. Materials Used: • 1/8" sublimatable hardboard material • 1/8" acrylic sheet stock • 4 Kota Pro stand-offs or other similar product (used for mounting acrylic to hardboard) • GF 790AE Print-N-Privacy Poly- meric Light etched film Step One: Once I have my design, I want to separate each individual part of the design for its corresponding design process. Step Two: I use a laser engraver to cut the acrylic and hardboard pieces to shape. When cutting both the acrylic and hardboard in the laser, leave the protective coating on to help protect it. For both acrylic and hardboard, it's best to use a slow speed and high power setting with multiple passes to achieve a better finish to your edge. Cutting them both on the vector bed grid (aka honeycomb grid) helps with the heat going through it and helps achieve a nicer cut. On our 60W Fusion Epilog we run for 1/8" acrylic: • 15% speed • 100% power • 100Hz for frequency (this is on a scale of 1-100Hz, most are 1-5,000Hz) • Two passes For our 1/8" hardboard: • 15% speed • 60% power • 25Hz • Two passes Step two. When cutting acrylic and hardboard, it's best to use a slow speed and high power setting with multiple passes. Step three: sublimating the hardboard. Step one in the how-to project. See article for full details.

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