September '19

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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Where you do run into problems with knitwear, according to Godfrey, "is when you have a lot of stitches packed into small areas. That's when you'll really see the warped fabric, or worse, holes. We call these dense designs 'bullet-proof '. Knits are definitely not going to survive a high- density design." Enter appliqué! Or for a change of pace and unique design element, re- verse appliqué. This technique doesn't just make it possible to add color, dimension, and interest to a design, but you can cover larger areas and keep both the density and the stitch count low. Godfrey explains, "For example, if I digitized a 3-inch square as a fill stitch, it would be around 9,500 stitches. That same 3-inch square as an appliqué has significantly fewer stitches, coming in at around 1,850. As you can guess, that appliqué design stitches much faster as well, leav- ing fewer opportunities for things to go awry. And, what's more, that appliqué is going to give you better coverage. If you stitch a light color thread onto a dark T-shirt, chances are you're going to be able to see that darker color through your stitching. An appliqué will cover the area more completely." DIGITIZING CRITERIA When asked about the challenge of digitizing for reverse appliqué de- signs, Godfrey mentions quite a few specific criteria. "In the case of reverse appliqué," she begins, "we're almost always digitizing with knit and a low density in mind. This means that our customers can put the designs on garments easily, and we can bring in other materials that pre- fer those conditions too, like leather, suede, and silks. Honestly, I love Reverse appliqué designs consist of decorative contrast fabric, the apparel itself, and embroi- dery thread. Top: Reverse appliqué was used on this T-shirt as a way to accomplish more embroidered design without the heavy stitch count. Above: Reverse appliqué al- lows this heavily embellished T to remain light. 4 8 P R I N T W E A R S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 9 REVERSE REVERSE REVERSE REVERSE APPLI APPLI APPLI APPLIQUÉ QUÉ

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