September '19

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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2 0 1 9 S E P T E M B E R P R I N T W E A R 4 9 TRAINING in the HALL Please visit for more information. Experience the lively exhibit hall, the classes taught by industry experts and the endless networking opportunities, all conveniently located near you! Denver, CO October 11-12, 2019 Charlotte, NC November 8-9, 2019 TRAINING STOP digitizing reverse appliqué, because from our perspective they're pretty quick and easy to design, but the end result is a high impact, 'How did you do that?' design." She adds that digitizing for reverse appliqué is similar to doing the designs for almost any collection: it's all about keeping the material in mind. "Many times, we digitize a collection and there are dozens of different materials that could be used by our customers. Ultimately, we don't know what they'll choose, so we try to digitize as universally as we can to keep the possibilities wide open for the end users." Ultimately, the trickiest part is going to be the choices of materials made by each individual embroiderer. "Placing your designs on garments can be a little overwhelming because, if it's wrong, you're out a T-shirt," Godfrey admits. The very nature of reverse ap- pliqué includes the step of cutting away a part of the garment, so nerves of steel are a prerequisite to this technique. "The other trick," Godfrey points out, "is making sure you have the right tools and secondary materials on hand—a quality water-soluble stabilizer and a backing for your knit if the design has any significant areas of fill stitching." She also stresses the use of a ballpoint needle. "Its slightly rounded tip pushes the weave of my knits aside instead of cutting it like a sharper needle would. This will protect the integrity of the fabric and give it a longer life." TIME TO STITCH With digitizing complete, stitching out a reverse appliqué design follows the same steps as textbook appliqué, just in reverse. "With reverse appliqué, instead of placing your appliqué fabric on top of the placement stitch, you place it on the backside of your hoop. When you trim, you actually trim your knit fabric away from inside the tacking stitch, revealing the appliqué fabric underneath. This detail of a reverse appliqué shows mixing of thread, background fabric, and faux suede.

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