Sign & Digital Graphics

March '20

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2 2 • M A R C H 2 0 2 0 • S I G N & D I G I T A L G R A P H I C S and the length of the board was to be approximately seven and a half feet long. I dusted off the old table saw and made sure the saw blade was perfectly perpen- dicular at 90 degrees, then very carefully pushed the four boards through, trim- ming a little off both sides so their edges would fit together tightly. After having the boards the correct width and length, they were clamped together temporarily. Later these sign boards would be perma- nently secured together with three pieces of ½" x 1" channel-iron (steel), but those metal pieces would need to placed to avoid being in the way of any studs that would come through the sign to hold the letters and border in place. This meant I needed to position the text and border and drill holes for them before locat- ing where the steel braces would go and securing them in place. After carefully placing the border on the sign and marking its stud holes, a pattern, made from plotted out IP vinyl was thumb tacked on the face of the sign. Short, pointed studs were threaded into the backs of each letter, placed over the pattern accurately, and then pushed down The short marking studs were placed in the backs of each letter and used to pierce the pat- tern and put small marks in the sign itself. To improve the marks, a hammer and nail was used to make each hole bolder. Using our old "FlexArm" it was easy to drill perfectly perpendicular holes through the two-inch-thick boards. Finally the radius cuts at the corners of the sign were made offset the right distance from the aluminum border. After locating where all the studs would go that would secure letters and border, the actual steel braces that would permanently hold the planks together were located, and screwed into place, but would be removed later for powder coating.

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