Issue link: https://nbm.uberflip.com/i/1451382
G R A P H I C S - P R O. C O M S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 2 • G R A P H I C S P R O 2 7 the graphic. I tape the graphic to the cab to make a hinge and match it up to the cab graphics, which I usually apply first. I also use magnets on the tailgate side to hold the graphic in place until I remove the liner. I will then remove the liner and pull the material tight to try and pull the wrinkles out of the material – mainly on the outer most flat portion of the fender. INSTALL I'm now ready to start installing the large flat area of the fender first. I will keep an even line where I have installed just as it starts to break over the top of the fender. If you don't keep the line even, you can get yourself in a jam quickly. When working down the face of the fender, I usually stop where the marker lights are and work that section when I am working the fender transitions. e next step is where the beauty of the material will come into play. I start applying heat to the top section of the fender to allow the material to relax and become more pliable. It takes quite a bit of heat to get this done on such a large area. I always use a heat gun to attack this kind of install because I can get more consis- tent controlled heat over a larger area than with a torch. While the material is still warm, I start working from the flat outer edge toward the top of the bed. is process needs to be slow and consistent and keeping an even line across the top of the bed. Once you reach the top of the bed, begin to work along the top of the bed toward the front and rear of the truck bed. Now you will have a good amount of material in front and behind the fender. You need this to heat and conform the mate- rial with a minimum amount of stress on the material. Start working from the flat area toward the bedside. You need to con- tinue to use your heat gun (heating a larger area than needed) and squeegee a little at a time. e excess you have at the front and back of the bed will be used to pull the wrinkles out of the material as you work. You will get to a point where the vinyl is I always use a heat gun to attack this kind of install because I can get more consistent controlled heat over a larger area than with a torch.